It’s a tale as old as time: two people meet, fall in love, and as a result, form an alliance forged by the bonds of unbreakable love. As a symbol of this alliance, also known as marriage, they exchange some sort of token. Since as far back as the Roman Empire, this token has been a ring. Around the 19th century, South African diamond mines were producing around one million carats a year, causing the diamond ring, which originally was thought to be limited to the elite and royals, to become the most popular choice for an engagement ring. There are three periods in history thought to be responsible for making the modern engagement ring what it is today: Georgian, Victorian, and Edwardian. Take a closer look at three periods and how the engagement ring has evolved since then.
The Georgian Period (1714–837)
Engagement rings from this period were notorious for having a closed foil back, which allowed for maximum brilliance. Unfortunately, they were easily damaged by any contact they had with water. During this time, the “rose cut” or “table cut” diamonds, stones with flat bottoms and domed on top, were the most popular choice for engagement rings.
The Victorian (1837–1901)
Among the most popular options for Victorian Era engagement rings were those with colorful enamel and flush settings, where the center stone is ensconced in the metal band to protect it from being stolen. The world saw a diamond rush in 1856, when Queen Victoria had the Koh-I-Noor diamond set in her crown, hence the name of this era.
The Edwardian (1901–1920)
Amidst the rise of platinum being rediscovered as a means for making jewelry emerged three design movements: Art Nouveau, Art & Crafts, and Belle Époque. Because platinum is more malleable than gold, it is easier to work with and allows for detail and precision. The Edwardian Era saw lots of rings with floral motifs and fine engravings that made it look like fabric wrapped around the finger.
The 1920s –1930s: Art Deco
As the world moved into the Twentieth century, it began to cycle through art movements faster than ever. In the time of flappers and Ford Model Ts, the Art Deco movement was seen everywhere, and jewelry was no exception. Geometric lines, shapes, and symmetry dominated; as a result, the emerald cut and the Asscher cut were both invented and became very popular. Then the Great Depression hit.
The 1940s–1950s: Diamonds Are Forever
As people tried to manage the financial crisis and World War I, buying engagement rings almost went extinct. In the late 1940s, the British diamond company, De Beers, in an attempt to revive sales, started a campaign to convince the world that the engagement ring was a non-negotiable when it came to love and commitment, and the only acceptable stone for this ring was a diamond. Thus, the slogan “A Diamond is Forever” was born. The round brilliant cut, better known as RBC, was invented, and because platinum was in such short supply after the war, yellow gold became the metal of choice.
The 1960s–1970s: Art Deco Revival and Icons
The war was over, and opulence was back; the desire for glamour was in full force. Diamonds with geometric shapes and brilliant cuts were the most popular. The marriages of icons Elizabeth Taylor, Jackie Kennedy Onassis, and Marilyn Monroe made a lasting impression on the diamond market with their double-digit carat rings. It became all about the cut of the stone to maximize bling.
The 1980s: Bold, Colorful, and Royal
In keeping with the big and the bold trend of the late 70s, the 80s were all about excess. Jewelers had also figured out they could sell matching wedding band sets to couples, and those became trendy. Perhaps the biggest mark made on the engagement ring industry, however, was made when Princess Diana chose her engagement ring, the stunning 12-carat sapphire in a bed of diamonds atop an 18k gold band.
The 1990s: Platinum, Solitaires, and Maximum Brilliance
And then excess was out, and minimalism was back. Brides opted for simple bands with round solitaires for the biggest dazzle, cool platinum replaced warm gold, and the marquise had a big moment when Victoria Beckham debuted her engagement ring from David Beckham.
The 2000s: The Halo Moment
The new millennium dawned with a demand for sparkle. Brides and jewelers found the best way to achieve the most, while keeping costs reasonable, was the halo design: a cushion-cut diamond encircled by a “halo” of smaller diamonds. This setting not only provided maximum brilliance but also enhanced the size of the center stone.
The 2010s: True Colors
Colored stone engagement rings once again had their moment when Prince William proposed to Kate Middleton with his mother, Princess Diana’s sapphire ring. Lady Gaga sported a pink sapphire, and Katy Perry had a ruby in the shape of a flower as her engagement ring. It was a colorful era.
The 2020s: To Thine Own Self Be True
These days, it’s all about having a ring that reflects the bride’s unique personality. Most brides have a say-so in what ring their partner chooses for them, with some even designing the rings themselves. Taylor Swift’s engagement ring brought about a resurgence in antique designs with her Old Mine cut diamond. The toi et moi setting saw a reboot this decade with celebrities like Ariana Grande and her 8-carat diamond alongside a pearl from her late grandma’s collection.
Explore our selection of engagement rings at Schwarzschild Jewelers. Visit us in Richmond, Charlottesville, and Midlothian Virginia.